Whereas much of the coastline of other Mediterranean islands has been smoothed by millennia, leaving behind inviting soft sands, tranquil bays caressed by turquoise tides, against the backdrop of rolling hills, Corsica stands apart for the elemental beauty of its rugged landscape.
That's not to say it is without its share of paradisiacal beaches. However, beyond the gentle serenity of the powdery sands and shimmering waters that characterise the most photogenic stretches of Corsica's coastline looms a mountain landscape that is as untamed as it is jaw-dropping in its imperious beauty.
The vast mountain range, which encompasses the Monte Cinto (the island's highest peak) and Incudine-Bavela massifs among others and divides the island in two, is actually an extension of the granite backbone that makes up the mainland Alps system, cut off from its mainland cousins by the sparkling waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
There remains an almost primal brutality about the island's inland mountain region, as if not long burst from beneath the sea, from beneath even the Earth's crust itself, with a violence still palpable in the shard-like peaks and jagged valleys which dominate the island's hinterland. Yet it possesses a strange timelessness, insomuch as it exists beyond a timeframe that bears any regard for the ephemeral presence of humans and less still for our naive comprehension of the passing of ages. It is at once raw and ancient, like something forged in the heat and hostility of a distant prehistory, one of mythical Gods and warring Titans, yet bearing scars still fresh, clearly visible in the stark light of the Mediterranean sun.
While much of the northern part of this 'mountain in the sea' is dramatic in its appearance, it does include pockets of a more tranquil beauty: trickling mountain streams and shady chestnut woods, sparkling waterfalls and hidden gorges and idyllic pools, perfect for wild swimming, while green meadow-like plateaus and quaint villages have taken a foothold in the otherwise intimidating mountainous terrain, offering hikers plenty of opportunity to pause and take in these wondrous natural surroundings.
Many such delights can be found along the iconic hiking routes, which criss-cross the island.
Experienced hikers daring to explore Corsica's stunning central mountain range might opt to hike the GR20, the island's famously gruelling hiking trail, which cuts a 200km path north to south from Calenzana to Conca. The GR20 takes you through and over the Corsican mountains, including the Natural Park of Corsica which sits in the centre of the Ile de Beauté and covers almost a third of the entire island.
It is a wild place, a reminder of the order in which life emerged on the planet; rocks, mountains, rivers and seas, vegetation and eventually mammals, fish and birds, with humans a mere afterthought, if paid any mind at all. The result is the feeling, as you cut across this untamed terrain, that you are glimpsing nature at its most elemental, it's truest manifestation in a sense. And it is a rare privilege indeed.
The GR20 is not the only hiking trail on the island, with a tangle of paths forming a veinlike network between the charming towns and hilltop villages that perch atop the cliff edges and cascade down the mountainsides of the Isle of Beauty. Many of these mountain walks are adapted for less experienced hikers, while still ensuring awe-inspiring views.
Calvi and Bastia (the largest town in Corsica), picturesque places with historic citadels and fantastic views of the sea are two highlights of the north of the island, alongside the quaint town of Saint-Florent, the unspoiled bays a short hike from the town are among the finest in the Haute Corse and indeed on the whole island.
Not far from the chic cultural capital of Calvi and the wonderful L'île-Rousse, lies the charming 9th century village of Pigna, where small, artisan shops showcase works of skilled handicraft and the views out over the green slopes give way to the distant shimmer of the blue sea.
Meanwhile in southern Corsica, close to the Strait of Bonifacio that separates Corsica from Sardinia, Porto-Vecchio sits among a coastline featuring an embarrassment of natural riches, in the form of breath-takingly beautiful white sandy beaches, such as the famous beaches of Rondinara and Palombaggia.
Further inland, among the valleys and vegetation, close to the Rotondo mountain, rises from the sedimentary rock the former capital of Corsica, Corte. This proud, hilltop village, hidden away inside the central region must feel like a mirage to the hikers who stumble across it while traversing the island.
An authentic slice of timeless Corsican charm.
On the western side of the island sits UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Golf of Porto, as paradisiacal a sight as you could hope to find anywhere. The surrounding area is a treasure trove of natural wonders, such as the heartbreakingly beautiful Calanques de Piana and the equally stunning Scandola nature reserve, formed of reddish rock formations jutting out of the ocean and suggesting an almost Martian landscape.
In the Cap Corse, the 'island within an island' that forms the northernmost tip of the island, you can follow the scenic Sentier des Douaniers (custom officers' path), which runs alongside the coast and offers a peek at Corsica's fascinating history in the form of a series of Genoese towers watching over the azure bays below. Along the way, stop off at the village of Nonza and discover its unusual black pebble beach. Or admire the crumbling beauty of Erbalunga and its colourful houses, while leisurely sipping a cool drink and watching the fishing boats bring in the day's catch at the village harbour. Be warned, the summers are particularly dry in Corsica, and there is little respite from the baking summer heat along this route. Whether you're an experienced hiker or a beginner, it is essential to bring plenty of water, and take advantage of the few opportunities to shade yourself for the midday sun.
Corsica, the mountain in the sea offers people the chance to explore a landscape like no other, a culture rich in history, tradition and cuisine, and to experience the true meaning of a Mediterranean escape.
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