Language
Currency
Perched proudly on a rocky promontory watching over the people buzzing about the charming streets and luxurious marinas of Ibiza's eponymous capital city. the Dalt Vila (literally. 'upper town') of Eivissa is a stunning testament to the island's storied past, and an open invitation to learn more about this most legendary of Mediterranean islands.
Established in the 7th century BC by early Phoenician settlers, who named the island after Bes, the Egyptian god of music, sex and revelry, the imposing walls of Ibiza's old town have undergone a great many changes throughout the ages. Populated at different times by some of the great civilisations (including the Greeks, Romans and Moors, before eventually falling to the Christian kings of Catalonia and Spain), the much-coveted stronghold of Eivissa and its Dalt Vila is a reminder of the Balearics' status as a prized foothold in the Iberian peninsula.
Today a stroll through the narrow warren-like streets and along the imperious ramparts of the old town, a UNESCO world heritage site, and the surrounding areas is an opportunity to witness the architectural legacy of its former custodians, and to bask in the beauty and joie de vivre of the famous city they bestowed us.
The first things that strikes you as leave the square of the Mercat Vell for the gently sloping approach to the imposing drawbridge of the Ses Taules, the famous fortified entrance to Ibiza's old town, is the sheer size and thickness of the walls to the citadel. This is no quirk of design. The countless assaults and raids by pirates and other covetous armies led to the utmost care taken in protecting this strategically crucial settlement. French mystic Nostradamus once remarked that "Ibiza will be Earth's final refuge". With one look at the Ses Taules portal it's easy to see why.
All around the old town of Eivissa and, indeed, throughout the island, a series of imposing walls, look-outs, bastions and fortified buildings can be found, much of which was constructed in the sixteenth century to keep 'the white island' safe from unwanted visitors. Get a little closer and you'll see that either side of the arched entrance of the Ses Taules stands a headless Roman statue, replicas from the island's Roman era (the originals can be admired in the Archaeological Museum), while above the drawbridge you will find a plaque emblazoned with the coat of arms of the then king Felipe II and the numbers 1585, the date of completion.
Originally, the drawbridge that protected the city crossed a natural moat separating the island's citadel from what today is the marina area, Formally made of heavy timber, the drawbridge was replaced with a permanent concrete walkway at the turn of the 20th Century.
Passing through the portal you will enter the Pati d'Armes a series of arches that would have once been the fall-back for soldiers during defensive battles, before it was later replaced by the old town's famous hippy markets - a testament in itself of the changes the island has witnessed over the years. This quiet patio leads into the bright and welcoming Plaza de Vila and the start of the delightful whitewashed walls of the Dalt Vila's inner sanctum. This pretty, cobble-stoned square (complete with charming cafes and restaurants, arti galleries and gift shops) hosts the fantastic Museum of Contemporary Art, which holds an excellent collection of modern and avant garde pieces, including works by Tàpies, Miralles and Hinterreiter, and is a must-visit for art lovers everywhere.
It was during the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s that the Balearic Islands were very much a refuge for those who sought to escape and resist Franco's forces, in turn becoming a haven for freethinkers, radicals and artists from the Spanish mainland and beyond - a reputation that remains to this day. As such, there are a great many galleries and artisanal shops as well as a great spirit of creativity and eccentricity to be found throughout the island.
The popular summer months can see the Plaza de Vila a little too bustling for some tastes, but a trip in early autumn showcases the picturesque beauty of its quaint terraces and little balconies in all their understated glory. A little further up from the square you can pass the leafy and more secluded Plaza de Sa Carrossa and its curious statue of a priest sat on a bench. This bewildered-looking figure is of Isidor Macabich i Llobet, a local priest and historian who published four volumes of the roots, traditions and history of the island in the 1960s, going deeper into the fascinating backstory of the Ibiza than anyone previous, or perhaps since. He was also a noted archaeologist, teacher and poet. Originally, the statue commissioned to honour him included a pair of glasses, but within 24 hours of its inauguration, they had fallen off, leaving behind a somewhat lost expression on the face of the priest.
A little further stands the Baluarte (Bastion) de Santa Lucía, from which you can enjoy a wonderful view of the port below; the first of many exceptional photo opportunities provided by the Dalt Vila.
The quiet, winding streets and alleys of the Dalt Vila are mostly pedestrianised, an invitation to explore this charming old town on foot. If you choose to do so, sooner or later you will stumble upon the Church of Santo Domingo and the neighbouring Town Hall of the city, which occupies the site of the old monastery. The church houses practising nuns, known as Ses Monges Tancades ('the cloistered nuns'), who also happen to make delicious orelletes, local ear-shaped cakes, which are sold through a metal grille to hungry travellers as they file by.
However, by the time you arrive at the church, your gaze will no doubt have been captured by the gothic tower of the Cathedral of Santa Maria de las Nieves. This iconic thirteenth century cathedral possesses a more sober aspect than the likes of Burgos and Toledo and was built after the Catalan armies captured the city from the Moors, and erected on the site of the former mosque of Yabisa (the old Moorish name of the island), a common practice during the Spanish Reconquista. Since the cathedral’s original construction in a gothic style, it underwent further restoration in the 18th century, lending some elements of it a Baroque character; the rich history of the island once more immortalised in its architecture.
A curious story of intrigue and betrayal surrounds the capture of the city from the Moors. Legend has it that this apparently unconquerable city fell following a dispute between the Sheikh and his brother over a mistress. Indignant at having found his mistress in the Sheikh's harem, the brother snuck out to the Catalan army, who up until that point had laid a fruitless 5-month siege, the whereabouts of a secret underground passage leading from Calle de San Ciriaco into the citadel. Shortly after, the Catalan's invaded and the rule of the Moors ended. However, their legacy can still be seen in the agricultural practices employed throughout the islands, as well as in many of the place names, while every year on the 8th August the festival of San Ciriaco is held to commemorate the conquest, with folk dances, food and, among other events, an archery competition!
It's almost impossible to wander the streets of the Dalt Vila without feeling a lightness of spirit, as you take in the simple pleasures of their delightful whitewashed houses, shady secluded squares and healthy scattering of potted plants. While the island has gained fame for its other pleasures in recent decades, a quiet walk through these narrow streets is a reminder of the more understated side of life here, as well, of course, of its rich history.
Located close to the cathedral is the Madina Yabisa Museum, offering a fascinating demonstration of how the Moorish city developed during the middle ages, and the Archaeological Museum of Ibiza and Formentera, which houses a small-but-fascinating collection of Phoenician artefacts. Perhaps most impressive of the cluster of other must-see buildings found nearby, is the Castell d’Eivissa, in many ways the heart of the island. Currently undergoing restoration, the castle and the neighbouring Almudeina, the former seat of Arab power. remain partially closed to the public, Those parts that are open, however, showcase a truly fascinating history.
The best view of these buildings can be enjoyed from the Baluard de Sant Bernat. Indeed, the privileged position of the cathedral, castle and surrounding areas offers awe-inspiring panoramas over the rooftops of the Dalt Vila and the rest of Ibiza Town, as well as the striking azure waters of the Marina Botafoc below. The vista, in particular, from the mirador Rey Jaume I is absolutely not to be missed, especially at night. Meanwhile, inside the bastion of Sant Bernat itself, you can find a display of old fashioned armoury - you're even allowed to try on a suit of armour and wield some of these ancient weapons; a must for children of all ages!
The Dalt Vila of Ibiza has five entrances, the second most important (after Ses Taules) being Portal Nou, located in the imposing Baluard de Sant Pere. This bastion and the section of the walls to the ancient citadel were designed and restored in the 16th century by the Italian Engineer Giovani Battista Calvi at the behest of King Carlos V, who wanted to shield the city from raids by the Turks and north African pirates. The bastion houses a museum with a brief audiovisual representation of the construction of the city walls. The Baluarte de Sant Pere has been used to host concerts and events in the summer, including the popular outdoor Cinema Paradiso.
The 50 metre tunnel of the Portal Nou links the pretty Plaza del Sol inside the old town to the picturesque Plaza de la Reina Sofia, just outside the walled city. The delightful cobble-stone streets of Plaza de Sol are a wonderful place to stop for a drink or something to eat and to revel in the convivial, laid-back atmosphere of the island.
While the tumultuous history and architectural patrimony of the Dalt Vila is indeed fascinating, this charming area isn't merely an open-air museum. For those visiting during the summer months, throughout the labyrinth of narrow streets and steps of the Dalt Vila you will stumble across all manner of delightful bars, cafes and restaurants (although there are none in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral itself).
Among these, our favourites include Kyupiddo, a delightful Japanese-Mediterranean fusion restaurant and terrace, hidden in the quiet Carrer de Joan Roman but blessed with an unforgettably lovely view over the marina. La Oliva, meanwhile is a quaint French-run restaurant offering the finest in Mediterranean cuisine. Those looking for something a little more lively might opt for the outdoor terrace of El Olivio Mio, a colourful boho-chic restaurant also boasting an excellent Mediterranean menu.
18 (20 max.)
9
9
12
6
7
