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The Scandola nature reserve, a Corsican jewel

Written on : 28 February 2023
The Scandola nature reserve, a Corsican jewel

For all of Corsica's wealth of natural sites, there is one that stands out for its singular, otherworldly beauty. 

The Scandola Nature Reserve, located along the west coast of Corsica between Calvi and Ajaccio is among the most unusual and unmissable natural wonders in the Mediterranean. It is the awe-inspiring result of an ancient volcano dragged into the sea, leaving behind a legacy of great jagged sculptures of red-hued porphyry stacks, rocky headlands, vast natural arches, rough-hewn creeks and mysterious sea caves into which swim shimmering shoals of sargus, slithering moray eels and looming grouper.

The area was established as a nature reserve in 1975, covering an area of 19km², split almost evenly between land and sea. Only really accessible by boat, this protected natural sanctuary, home to ospreys, cormorants and eagles, as well as goats, foxes, and occasionally even playful pods of dolphins, guards the pristine habitat of its natural jewels jealously, prohibiting swimming, diving and even anchoring within its waters, while on land, the natural barrier of its 1000-metre-high mountains and outlawing of hunting, hiking and camping help to maintain this unspoiled wilderness for its natural inhabitants. 

A combination of its untamed natural beauty and the conservation efforts of the Corsican government, has seen the regional natural park recognised on the UNESCO world heritage list.

Take a boat trip from Calvi, Porto or Ajaccio

Take a boat trip from Calvi, Porto or Ajaccio

The best way, and - for most - the only way to experience the wonder of the Scandola nature reserve is on a boat trip to Scandola leaving from either Calvi, the Gulf of Porto or the gorgeous town of Ajaccio. For those visiting from Calvi, you can expect a journey of around an hour each way, as well as an hour exploring the grottos, creeks, arches and amazing rock formations that make up the most impressive parts of the protected coastline. Along the way, you can stop off at the gorgeous little village of Girolata for lunch, where people can take a stroll around its quaint streets and sit and admire the breath-taking sight of the surrounding bay, including a magnificently defiant Genoese tower. The only other way to reach Girolata is by taking 'the postman's path' a 4-hour hike made famous by the local postman, Guy Ceccaldi, who traversed the tough 9 kilometres that separate Girolata from the nearby village of Col de la Croix every day until his retirement in 2014.  

Those wishing to bring their own boat into the natural reserve should be warned that access is restricted to approved boats. The benefit of taking a guided boat tour is that the guides really do know the best places to visit, the little nooks and hidden caves that might otherwise pass you by, as well as the sites to keep an eye open for, such as the nesting areas of the local cormorants and other ornithological delights, including the bald eagle, cory's shearwater and peregrine falcon. 

 

Where can you go swimming, snorkelling or diving in Scandola Nature Reserve?

Where can you go swimming, snorkelling or diving in Scandola Nature Reserve?

In short, you can't. However, while it is necessary to avoid such activities within the confines of the reserve, so as to preserve its delicate biodiversity, you can still explore the marine life (and more!) in the surroundings immediately outside the park's borders. In fact, many boat tour services will drop anchor precisely to allow tourists to hop into the sea and enjoy the warm Mediterranean while marvelling at the almost lysergic natural scene around them; cobalt blue waters, rusty red cliffs topped with tufts of maquis shrubland, and green meadows of Posidonia. 

Those wishing to scuba dive, can do so at the far end of the Gulf of Porto, home to Capo Rosso, among the most beautiful dive sites, as well as Scopa's Spit, Monte Rosso, and Punta Munchullinia, not to mention the impressive rock formations of the iconic Calanques de Piana. Exploring the local seabed you will discover groupers, moray eels, nudibranch and others as well as distinctive red coral - an experience not to be missed. 

Much more than just a beach holiday

Much more than just a beach holiday

Although there is no denying the allure of Corsica's paradisiacal beaches, a parade of soft ivory-hued sands and azure bays befitting of The Isle of Beauty's famous moniker, to restrict oneself to the coast of Corsica is to miss out on the elemental beauty of the streams and valleys of its mountainous interior landscapes, the fascinating architecture of its historic towns and the bucolic charm of the little villages and hamlets that pop up across this most loved of Mediterranean islands. 

 

Perhaps the best region for hiking in France

Perhaps the best region for hiking in France

It's no exaggeration to suggest that Corsica might offer the best hiking trails anywhere in France, or indeed the western Mediterranean. Famously challenging, the legendary GR20 trail which runs from the north to the south of the island, taking in treacherous mountain landscapes, green meadows, trickling streams, lush valleys, and secret gorges providing wild swimming spots, is a must-do for experienced hikers the world over. For those who prefer something a little less gruelling, you can find countless paths and trails criss-crossing the island, from the Cap Corse to Bonifacio and everywhere in between. When on holiday in Corsica, you are never far from stunning natural landscapes. 

Visit the towns and villages of Corsica

Visit the towns and villages of Corsica

Corsica possesses a rich history and a handful of gorgeous towns and villages for you to explore. In the north you can find the charming town of Saint-Florent (a base camp for those looking to explore the Desert of Agriates) famous citadels of Bastia and Calvi (the latter a great place for those wishing to combine the primitive beauty of the Scandola nature reserve with the chic French glamour of its bars and exquisite restaurants) to Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio, where the surrounding beaches take on an otherworldly beauty not unlike that of the Caribbean, where you can indulge in all your shipwreck paradise fantasies. 

Then there's Corte, the former capital of independent Corsica, set dramatically atop a promontory among the rocky hinterland of the island, the houses and shops cascading down the side of the mountain like lava flows which have cooled and petrified in the shapes of pretty homesteads, where local people go about the idyllic splendour of their everyday lives, enjoying the hearty local cuisine and immersing themselves in the timeless traditions and natural wonders that make up this wonderful island. 

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